Image size for printing


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spanishgirleyes
Image size for printing

I am new to lz and would like to know where I can find the settings to change image size for printing. Any help is appreciated.  Thanks.  

hcremers
print size

Not sure which steps you take to print, but if you print from the LZ browser (button at the top) then the size options are right there in the print dialog.

 

Or, if that's not what you mean, please be more specific.

spanishgirleyes
Image size for printing.

Sorry I should have been more specific.  I would like to crop say the photo for an 8x5 aspect ratio at 300 resolution and save it for sending to Walgreens for printing.   I can't seem to find that function in LZ.  

 One more thing.  Is there a way to duplicate the image so as not to affect the original? 

Thank you

SFA
You need to use the CONVERT

You need to use the CONVERT facility.

 

There are 2 versions, one aimed at single images and one for batch processing (Use batch if you have a fairly consistent run of images all to be the same size.

 

When you are editing and croppiing set the crop to the size you want as a RATIO - eg 8x5 or 5x8 for portrait. Key the numbers in to the boxes provided with the crop tool and click the lock symbol to fix it!

 

Go to you image and set the crop  that you want as the aspect ratio.

 

Now select Convert Image from the File menu.

 

Choose the required output file type (probably jpg if you are sending it for printing) and the "Resize to" fields to 2400 x 1500 (for 8 x 5 at 300 pixels per inch)

 

Assuming the file will likely be reduced rather than enlarged you may want to consider what quality level you really need to set for a jpg or whether to use LZW compression (for a TIFF file)  but it may not be necessary for printing. A lower quality level from a larger original file size will likely print just fine (it's not easy to always be 100% sure but ...) and will greatly reduce the file size to be sent to the printer.

 

The file should be 8bit (printing is almost certainly 8 bit ) and set 300 pixels in the last box.

 

Convert will then produce the output file for you using the name you provided at the top of the selections box.

 

IF you are going to be enlarging the cropped area there may be other considerations. but I will assume for now that you probably won't be enlarging - i.e. the area of the crop starts out greater than 2400x1500 for an 8x5 crop where 8x5 is intended to be the size in inches at 300 pixels per inch.

 

LZ is a non-destructive editor so when you save an edit file you would not normally chang ethe original file at all. Unless you deliberately or accidentally change the file name to overwrite the original. That is slightly more likely to happen if editing a jpg file (or perhaps a tiff if you use them as the edit file file type (_lzn files) but it will not happen if you let LZ do its stuff.

 

For output from the "Convert" process I would recommend that you set up a specific folder (or folders) so that you will always send the "Converted" files to a known location from where you can 'collect' them for forwarding to the printer.

 

You can create as many versions of your edit for an image as you wish - including for different size crops output of course. Just start a new edit from the original file and save it or start with an existing edit and then use "Save As" when required to save both the orginal and the revised version of the edits.

 

I'll refer you to the help file topics for that - there is little point in me trying to repeat what they say. Also the videos on YouTube.

 

 

HTH.

 

 

 

Grant

 

 

spanishgirleyes
Thank you so much Grant  for

Thank you so much Grant  for your detailed explanation. It will be a tremendous help to me.  Will print this out to have as a reference.  Appreciate the time you took to explain it.  :-)

SFA
Glad to have been some help.

Glad to have been some help.

 

I would guess that you chosen print service will also offer some advice  - most do. Some are more specific than others, especially where a 'Fine Art' optioon is available at a premium price.

 

Many may also offer the opportunity to 'scale up' (or Enlarge in old photo speak) images. This can often be done very successfully at print time or even in the editing software. Some of it may be rather confusing these days if it was written before digital cameras offered the resolutions available today and printers had not reached the extremely capable levels that have been possible for some years. (Also photo printing papers, especially for inkjet, and all the software that we use.)

 

Try this page for more detailed insight about file sizes and related considerations.

 

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/digital-camera-pixel.htm

 

 

Grant

 

 

tommie
File size?

Hi Grant, just to continue on this topic, i am new to RAW processing and i notice that when i open and process a 14MB RAW file the end jpeg is very small, sometimes around 4-600kb.

 

I`m concerned then about quality out of my A3 photo printer.

 

Could you advise on any settings i`m missing?

 

best wishes.

SFA
Welcome tommie!

Welcome tommie!

 

See the link in a post above for an easy to understand explanation of file sizes and so on.

 

In most cases but somewhat depending on the content of the image an what it is you are trying to achieve with it, a 'regular' print does not really need the sort of resolution recommended. It's good to have it and you may well be able to preceive a better result if studied closely but in many cases a lower resolution may well be perfectly acceptable for producing the output you are happy with, especially if using your own printer which offers you some control over the process.

 

I have am usually quite happy with results from a file of around 1Mb or a little less printing to A4 even when heavily cropped from the original PROVIDED it has been sensibly processed to start with - sharpening, colour management and so on. That said I do prefer to print directly from the RAW file +edits compared to creating a jpg first. Both approaaches offer benefits.

 

A 14Mb RAW file converted to a JPG with 100% quality at full size (same size as the original resolution after any lens correction and before serious cropping, with minimum compression applied and reduced to 8bits) would typically be something like 4 ish MB in size. It rather depends on the content.

 

Your 4-600 kb sounds like you are looking at the _lzn file, is that the case?

 

If so the LZN (or any named LightZone edit file if you have changed the naming convention or used the "Lift and Apply" options) is only intended to offer a jpg that has a thumbnail in it plus the editing instructions. You can set the size of the thumbnail to be large if you wish but will require more storage capacity, etc. to run with that level of detail retained.

 

More typically people keep the _lzn  files small - say a chosen max side length of 1024x1024 pixels - and generate an output file for printing (or other forms of display in a 'large' format) using the CONVERT option. (Or SEND for small, low resolution social media use)

 

CONVERT should allow you to create a file (typically jpg when it is to be used for printing) that is especially tuned to your printer requirements for bit size and colour needs and even adjusted to suit the paper type you plan to use. This includes the option to enlarge the image if you require and make a bigger source file though you need to understand the what effects this may have by comparing the results. You don't have to print a full image to do that - just use some important areas as samples and crop them than print at the sizes you wish to compare.

 

I'll repeat the link posted above and encourage you to follow some of the links it contains as well since they are of particular use as references when doing you own printing.

 

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/digital-camera-pixel.htm

 

You don't mention what sort and make of printer you have. I assume probably inkjet and either Epson, Canon or HP.

 

Printer drivers can make a huge difference to the enjoyment of the self printing process. I have a Canon A4 printer, several years old, that can produce some excellent results but for some reason the interfae with LZ 3.9 and before (the commercial product) was an erratic nightmare to try to use. I don't print often (the cost of ink is a seriouos consideration) but the process seems to work better with Windows 7, latest Canon drivers and LZ V4. Generating the output file (printing directly from the RAW file) has seemed a little slow though.

 

If you produce a jpg file to print quality first there is probably not much print in printing from LZ but I would recommend naming the file in a way that tells you how it has been prepared - resolution, intended paper type and size, etc. It can then be saved for future use if required.

 

 

HTH.

 

 

 

Grant

 

 

 

 

tommie
Thank you so much for that

Thank you so much for that advice, extremely helpful,  yes it was a _lzn file, now when i CONVERT i get a decent file size ok.

Just a couple of things re. the Convert screen - is it ok to keep the ppi at 300? Any point in changing anything in the Advanced Options?

 In Colour Profile is it best to select my Printer (Epson 1290 Stylus Photo) or leave it sRGB? Also Rendering Intent is at `Perceptual`?

I was intending making a few 10" x 8" prints.

btw, camera is Lumix FZ-200

 

 

SFA
Hi tommie,

Hi tommie,

 

Glad that helped.

 

If you are printing directly you might consider using Print rather than Convert.

 

Convert is useful for creating jpg files for use independently of LZ. So for sending to someone else for display purposes for example or for use as a generic file for printing where the printing device will work with the commonly used jpg/sRGB colour information.

 

(The TIFF output option would mostly be used for creating an output file to be used in another editor with full detail retained and no compression applied.)

 

Print gives you greater interaction with your printer and its specific capabilities. It can be a little more complex though .... I have no idea how well the Epson printer drivers work with LZ but have not read of any negative reports to date.

 

To stay with your questions about Convert for now ...

 

Printers have a 'native' value for how they process files which may or may not be of significance to the results. Check the information for the printer but from memory Epson is 360ppi and others typically 300. Anything less than the native value should be fine until you start to get down to about half the native value BUT that depends on the image and the media you are printing onto and  .... well, a host of other settings to if you are pushing things.

 

Screens will typically works at 72 or 96 ppi but that may be a moving target for the latest designs. The effect of using a a different ppi might be to degrade the image displayed by forcing the system to either compress or expand the input to fit the screen. If nothing else it is an additional overhead in the process and may slow things down a little - not so noticeable if you have fairly new and well specified hardware.

 

So, Convert to a jpg for on screen viewing - use the sRGB profile and set the ppi to, say, 96 to get a sensible balance of on screen quality and resolution vs file size.

Convert to a shareable jpg for printing then use the sRGB profile as a generic output and set the ppi to 300 (a typically used value) and check that the size of the image area is big enough, more or less, for the intended print size. So, 10x8 at 300ppi requires a file size of 3000x2400 pixels. If your image (perhaps cropped?) is only, say, 2400x1500 that would give you 8x5 as a maximum size at 300ppi. However if you still get it printed at 10in for the long side the print process should simply apply a ppi of 240  to give you the 10" and the smaller side would then work out as 6.25 in. (If you use the direct Print option you can play with all of this as you set thing up).

 

If you want to create a jpg print file with specific setting for your printer (or some other printer, perhaps that of a print service) then you can use Convert to create a file with the required print profile (e.g. your printer profile or a profile provided by the company you have selected to produce the print for you.)

 

The Profile will give the best results if it is one provided specifically for the combination of printer, the media you are printing onto (i.e. the type and specific properties of the 'paper', card or other surface) and a few other settings notable here the ppi that may be used by the print device to calculate how do deal with any 'adjustments' required.

 

So, for Convert,

 

JPG output (typically)

 

Colour Profile:

 

sRGB for a generic use. If targeting a specific printer then seek out the Colour Profile for the printer/paper combination.

 

Resize to:

 

LZ allows you to resize to smaller or larger (up to 200% larger iirc) but in effect you are playing with resolution and quality options. If you resize to a smaller than available image size (in ppi terms) you should typically get a smaller file. If you resize larger the file will, typically, be larger. For larger LZ will add pixels to the file to extend the image. This works very well for a good image. A less good image may start to show any flaws enlarged on close inspection. For something that is to be printed small flaws (e.g. slightly ragged/pixilated edges)  may not be much of a problem  - printing may reduce their appearance  - but much depends on viewing distance. If you look at a 6x4 print at reading distance it will likely look quite sharp. Make the same image 10x8 and view at the same distance it might not look so sharp. But place it on a wall and view from further away and it should look fine. (I am assuming the image is something that needs to look sharp - there are many that benefit for a 'soft' look!)

 

To get a general feel for this skim read this link. (Then read it more deeply if you feel inclined to dig in!)

 

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/digital-photo-enlargement.htm

 

Rendering intent

 

...  will almost certainly be Perceptual. But read this page as a useful and well illustrated primer if the subject is unclear to you. It's a rather geeky sort of subject for anyone not in the graphics business.

 

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/color-space-conversion.htm

 

Quality,

 

Tricky. The primary consideration here is file size so for printing where there is no storage constraint it is probably best to stick with 100%. This would be especially true, mainly, where images are being enlarged  - colour data will be reduced if quality settings are reduced (it's how the data storage size is reduce within a set resolution) and so colour 'banding' may result. However if file size is an important consideration that there is a good chance that a reasonable quality image would print just as well at anything down to 85% quallity and possibly further.

 

It's difficult to be specific to I would suggest experimenting to see how you feel about it.

 

In other situations the file size may take precedence over absolute quality considerations. It becomes a judgment call.

 

There is an enormous amount of material on this and related subjects on the Internet. More than enough to fully occupy your time to the point where you never take any images at all! All of it tries to cover a lot of variables and it can become a bit of a burden.

 

Just bear in mind that what you see on screen may not exactly match what you see printed. Especially if you don't have a fully colour managed workflow - and I would guess that few of us do in reality.

 

The very first challenge is that screens have active lighting and typical output media are passively lit based on the colour temperature of the light around them at the time we view them. They will never look completely the same.

 

If this is frustrating just remember that throughout the entire process non of colours are 'real' as such. They are a representation  - unless you have an absolute need for totally accurate colour matching, usually for commercial purposes, in which case there are likely better places to be seeking information and you may need some deep pockets to buy the appropriate resources to help you make it happen!

 

I hope this helps for now.

 

 

 

Grant

tommie
Great overview Grant, very

Great overview Grant, very informative,

it certainly is a steep learning curve and i`ve noticed if you play about with too many sliders/buttons etc the end result can be a photo thats become too `processed`.

Quote "Just bear in mind that what you see on screen may not exactly match what you see printed."

How true! This is another problem with individual monitors and printers that only the end user through trial and error will resolve.

In the meantime more reading and experimenting.

 

 

idarwin
Resize/recrop without stretch

Thanks for a great open-source tool and for the support you offer in the forums!!

So what is the best way to resize/re-crop 50 hand-cropped images of various sizes so they all print nicely at (say) 5x7 borderless?

The Crop tool gives no feedback about the size - it would be nice if the drag listener (in CropOverlay.java?) would print the width, height and ratio - something like "3127x4200 - 0.744" as you cropped, so you'd know that if you wanted 5/7 exactly you should change the crop to be 0.714 for 5x7.

If LZ can't do this ATM, what tool would you use? :-)

Again, thanks.